Great Living Chola Temples : 'G' for God, Great, Gigantic, Gorgeous, Grandeur, Granite and GANGAIKONDACHOLAPURAM !

Great Kings and Kingdoms  are not just remembered by their victories  and  territory maps. Their empires may be eroded away by time, but Not the temples and forts built by them or their contributions to art, culture or the good administrative reforms and governing systems introduced by them.

The Great Living Chola Temples:

The  Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikondacholapuram   is a rich repository of world's most gorgeous granite sculptures in the niches - each carved to striking perfection.

This    Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikondacholapuram  along with the Brihadeeswara Temple at Thanjavur and Airavatesvara temple at Darasuram are collectively referred  as the 'Great Living Chola Temples' by UNESCO.

All these UNESCO World Heritage Site temples were built by the Cholas (A short glimpse of Chola History in the bottom of  Darasuram post) between the 10th and 12th centuries CE and have a lot of similarities between them in their architecture. 

Brihadeeswara Temple, Gangaikondacholapuram

Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this gigantic temple in  granite  was built by Rajendra Chola (1014–1044 CE)  as a replica of the his father’s magnum opus Brihadeeswara Temple at Thanjavur, but with great craftsmanship in sculptures. 

Cholas - History

Ruled from 300 BCE to 1279 CE for almost 1500 years, the Tamil Cholas were one of the Great Dynasties of the World and is considered as the most influential Hindu kingdom in Indian history.

At their peak, their achievements scaled heights never reached before. Cholas ruled the lands of South East Asia that comprised of 28 countries, an army with 60,000 elephants, a well organized naval fleet of 1000 ships with the leaping tiger flag.(Indian government named the Merchant Navy Training Ship in Mumbai as 'T.S.RAJENDRA' as a tribute to this).

The Cholas were very religious and followers of Saivism (God Shiva). It was tradition of the Cholas to build a Shiva temple to thank Lord Shiva for victory and glory. Generally, the Chola Kings considered it as a measurement of power. The greater the Temple, the greater the power.

Rajendra Chola:  

Rajendra Chola-I was born to  Raja Raja Chola-I and his queen, Thiripuvana Madeviyar (Vaanathi)  on the Aadi Tiruvadhirai day.  Originally he was named 'Maduranthakan' (மதுராந்தகன்).

Young Maduranthakan  sat on the Chola throne as crown prince under his father’s rule. From his father the Great Rajaraja Chola, he not only inherited the mighty empire, but also the great wars.

He took command over the Chola army and crushed the rebels by arch rivals of the south the Pandyas and  Sinhalese at Sri Lanka.

Cholas under him defeated  the Western Chalukas, the Eastern Chalukas, Kalinga and extended their territory beyond the Tamil land.

Triumphant Conquests

When he wore the Chola crown in 1014 CE as the emperor over whole of southern India to the river Thungabadhra  in  the  north,   he had plans to overshadow his late father’s glory.

His eyes were on North India. He himself lead the army with his General Araiyan Rajarajan.

In 1019 CE, Rajendra’s forces marched through Kalinga towards the river Ganga. The Chola army eventually reached the Pala kingdom of Bengal where they defeated Mahipala. The Chola army also defeated the last ruler of the Kamboja Pala dynasty Dharmapala of Dandabhukti.  

The Chola army went on to raid East Bengal and defeated Govindachandra of the Chandra dynasty and invaded Bastar region. The territories held the status of tribute paying subordinates and trade partners with the Chola Kingdom, an arrangement that lasted till the times of Kulothunga III.

The Chola Territory and their Sub-ordinates * Map Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rajendra_Chola_I

At the peak of Rajendra Chola’s power, The Chola Empire held its sway over the Deccan, Bengal, Burma, Indo-China, Malay Peninsula, Singapore, Andaman-Nicobar Islands, Lakshadweep Islands, Maldives and Srilanka, making it one of the largest empires to ever rule India and was  the reason for making Tamil as one of the official languages in many South East Asian countries.

'Gangaikonda Cholapuram'

To commemorate his triumphant conquest to the Gangetic plains, in 1023CE, Rajendra Chola-I built a new city 'Gangaikonda Cholapuram' (கங்கை கொண்ட சோழபுரம்) .  The tongue-twisting name means ‘the city of the Chola who conquered the Ganga’.

According to inscriptions and literary evidences, the city was extensive with fortifications, well planned and was according to the architectural treatises.

For 250 years this city remained as the Capital of Chola empire which extended from Tungabhadra in the North to SriLanka in the South and was celebrated in the Tamil literatures of 'Muvar Ula' of Ottakutthar (மூவர் உலா - ஒட்டக்கூத்தர்) and 'Kalingattuparani'(கலிங்கத்து பரணி - ஜெயங்கொண்டார்) of Jayankondar.

From his triumphant journey, he brought back (Rajendra was titled as 'Gangaikondan' -the one who brought the Ganges) holy waters of the sacred river to sanctify Chola land and poured the Ganges water into the newly commissioned 'CHOLA GANGAM' (சோழ கங்கை) lake (now called 'PONNERI' and in a neglected state) for drinking and irrigation purposes. 

Credits : wikimapia

This lake spreads over a periphery of 22 km (see detailed google map) and is considered one of the largest man-made lake still in use in India.

The Temple :

It was the desire of Rajendra Chola to consecrate a temple as the replica of the Big Temple at Thanjavur built by his father and this resulted in this Brihadeeswara Temple, Gangaikondacholapuram.

The entrance does give an impression that there might have been a gopuram here. The British (1902) carried away huge chunks of Granite stones from this temple's outer walls to build Lower Anicut Dam across river Kollidam, but the temple still preserves its glory.

It is said that Thanjavur Big Temple is masculine in its appearance while Gangaikonda Chozhichvaram is feminine due to its concave outlined pyramidal temple tower.

The Vimana  has been carved out of the hard granite rock and is flanked on either side by small shrines for Ganesha, Amman and Mahishasuramardhini.

Credits : ulkottai.files.wordpress.com/2006/02/plan1.jpg

The presiding deity is Shiva in form of  'Linga'  (13.5 feet height  placed on a Avudayar of  60 feet circumference) and is one of the largest for any Shiva temple.

The Architecture :

This 182 feet main temple stands on a mammoth square basement of   100 feet by 100  and raises 20 feet above the ground level with 3  stories.

According to architectural treatises, basements (upa-pithas) are introduced in temples to increase the height of the main tower; to add structural stability and to make temple tower majestic. These purposes are magnificently fulfilled in both the Thanjavur and the Gangaikondacholapuram temples.

GUARDIANS OF GATE - the Gigantic Dwarapalakas  :

'DWARAPALAKAS' are Sentinel statues in Hindu temples and every God - Shiva, Vishnu, Devi have their own Dwarapalaka. Dwarapalakas are always in pair whose jobs are to stand and watch at entrance of the temple and keep away the evil influences.

Dwarapalakas are envisaged as larger-than-life warriors and their appearance, attributes have to be analogous with the presiding deity in the sanctum. Therefore their costume, emblems, powers, weapons are integrated with the principal deity.'Shilpis' (the temple architects) erect massive Dwarapalakas at the entrances to symbolize and emphasize the grandeur, majesty and magnificence of the Lord residing in the temple.

Rajendra Chola  excelled his father in everything and these Dwarapalakas at the temple built by him are more ornate than the similar ones at the temple built by his father, the Great Rajaraja-I.

These gigantic (upto 18 feet height monolithic in hard granite), muscular, awesome, handsome, fearsome and smiling Dwarapalakas are one of the striking features of Gangaikondacholapuram.

Dwarapalakas at sides of the stairway of the northern entrance are the most marvelous ones who Stand planting firmly a foot on the mace in threatening posture, they look bold, brutal with their bulging eyes and protruding curved sharp teeth.

WORK BACK & VISUALIZE THE GRANDEUR !

If we take a closure look below the foot of the Dwarapalaka, an elephant being swallowed by a serpent will never fail to catch our attention. The serpent in turn is twined around the mace held by Dwarapalaka. The serpent's size is puny, proportionate to the mace on which Dwarapalaka's foot is resting. Below his hands, the mace looks like a sports toy!

Starting from the elephant - the largest land animal, work back and estimate the size and power of Dwarapalaka. The sculptors' creativity to visualize the greatness of god is highly imaginative, innovative and impressive.

NOTABLE SCULPTURES

Gigantic Dwarapalakas, elegance in ornate sculptures in the niches are  connoisseur's delight.

The most striking sculptures   are the Nataraja, the dancing Lord Ganesha,  Chandesa  with  Shiva and Parvati (some say it is representation of the coronation of King Rajendra), Gnana Saraswathi and the Ardhanari (the man-woman manifestation of Sri Shiva).

Nataraja

Ardhanaarishwara - the man woman manifestation of Shiva

Gnana Saraswathi (Goddess of  Knowledge) seated in Lotus with Amruta Kalasa in upper arms 

Brahma

Bhairava

Shiva in various avatars  are depicted in the outer walls. 

Chola sthapathis (sculptors) - Experts of  facial Expressions!

Kalantaka dancing on Yama

Madanantaka - Right pleading Rathi 

Aalingana Murthi

Bhikshatana Murthi - Look the Sandals adorn the feet

Reason for some unfinished sculptures in parts of walls still remain a mystery!

"The sculptures of Gangaikondacholeeswaram are known for their boldness of conception and excellent execution. They present pleasing and charming faces full of life and rhythm. The images of Saraswathi, Chandesanugrahamurthi and Natarajaar undoubtedly from the dextrous hands of a master craftsman who has carved a permanent place for his creations in the art..." - Dr. R.Nagaswami, former Director of State Archaeology Department, Tamilnadu. 

Saint Chandeswara a great devotee of Siva, cut his father's leg, who disturbed his faith and Siva bestowed grace on both father and son.

Shiva and Parvathi

some interpret this represents the coronation of  young Rajendra Chola by Shiva 

Other Places of Interest :

Archaeological remains of royal palace at Maaligai Medu.

How to Reach? 

By Air: The nearest airport is Trichy (107 Kms via NH81).

By Rail: Nearest Major Railway Station is Kumbakonam - 35 kms

By Road: about 35 kms from Kumbakonam, 75 kms from Thanjavur and 245 km from Chennai.

Hours of opening:  6.00 am to 12.00 noon and 4.00 pm to 8.00 pm.

Admission is free.  No fee for still photography / videography with handheld cameras.

The serenity and sanctity of this temple with great archaeological significance than religious is well preserved here due to meagre milling crowds. The temple is well maintained by ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) .

REFERENCES :
1. Stone carving considerations - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stone_carving 
2. 'A History of South India', K.A. Nilakanta Sastri
3. 'The Military History of south Asia',  Col. Peter Stanford, 1932.
4. 'Military Leadership in India: Vedic Period to Indo-Pak Wars' By Rajendra Nath,
5. 'Gangaikondacholapuram' by R.Nagasamy - State Dept.of Archaeology, Govt.of Tamilnadu

   6. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South-East_Asia_campaign_of_Rajendra_Chola_I

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