Sunday 29 September 2013

ADALAJ STEP WELL – STEPPING BACK THRU HISTORY

In this contemporary era of reverse osmosis water purifiers and people waging war for waters,  this ancient architectural step well will definitely quench the thirst with an interesting legend. The farsightedness of our ancestors in preserving the sources of water is commendable.


Serene & Symmetrical 

STEP WELLS
Most of the kings of Gujarat have constructed specialized step wells for conserving water during rainy season that can be utilized during severe summer or drought. 

This step well “Adalaj Ni Vav” (In Guarati, ‘Vav’ means a step well accessible through many steps) is an architectural and engineering marvel.

View of the Vav – thru rains

THE NEED & PURPOSE
This step well at Adalaj was built by (or for?)  the Queen Rudabai  of  Vaghela dynasty  in 1498-1499 AD.   lt not only served utilitarian purpose but also as a cool resting place for travelers, pilgrims and caravans as stopovers along trade routes. 

It was an edifice for social, cultural and spiritual interaction for the villagers who came every morning at the well to procure water, offer prayers to the deities carved on the walls.
The octagonal pavilion at the entrance. I was welcomed with strong showers


HISTORY
The legend behind the origin of this step-well is as alluring as its architecture and camouflaged with   passion and tragedy.
In 1499,  the construction of the five-storied step well was started by Rana Vir Singh of the Vaghela dynasty  who was the ruler of ‘Dandai Desh’ - the area around Adalaj.

During  that time, Dandai Desh  was attacked by Mohammed Begda, a Muslim ruler of the adjoining state and Rana Vir Singh was killed in the battle.  Infatuted by the beauty of the slain king's widow  Rani Rudabai, Mohammed Begda sent her a matrimonial proposal.

The grief-stricken, but earnest queen imposed a condition that he should finish the remaining portion of the five-storied step-well started by her late husband. Cajoled by the charm of the queen, Begda readily agreed to the resume the project.

After the completion within a short time span, Mohammed Begda renewed his marriage proposal to Rani Rudabai. The Queen demanded to visit the step well. The next day, she came to the well, took a round at the dome, after reciting her final prayer,  plunged into the  well and got watery grave.
Samadhi for Rani Rudabai was built at the step well entrance.

It is worth to see the interplay of light with darkness inside the structure


PLANNING OF THE STEP WELL
The step well is located on the North and its entrance is from the south.   The total length of the structure is around 240 feet.

The Adalaj Ni Vav stands as the only step well, with three entrance stairs leading to a stepped corridor. These three entrances converge at the first storey with a huge square platform underground. The openings in the ceilings provide good ventilation and lighting for the octagonal well.
Construction of these types of step wells with lots of creativity – without the use of established engineering practices in the ancient times is always astonishing


THE STRUCTURE
The entire platform of this five storied well is designed to rest on 16 pillars, eight on the corners, and two in front of each main entrance. In each of four corners of the platform, shrines with doors and balconies are constructed. This square platform marks the beginning of the stepped corridor which is fully surrounded by 3 feet high parapet wall.

Looking up the top stories from the vav’s bottom – as rains pour as lines
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ENTERING THE STEP WELL
Some damp smell of bats and doves   welcome when entering the well.
While getting  down the step well, one might get an impression of entering a delphic location and extreme caution must be taken due to the slippery condition of the steps. Since it was raining during our visit, it was really a bizarre experience for us.
Entering into the earth – in silence


INSIDE THE STEPWELL
By getting down through 344 steps, the well water can be reached.
The step well is constructed in such a way that the direct sunlight does not touch reach either the flight of steps or the landing except during noon which makes the temperatures inside the step well up to six degrees cooler than outside.

The water level inside the well may vary  upon the season and the amount of rainfall


ARCHITECTURE
Although the step well was intended for a specific usage, its pragmatic creativity makes more than its purpose. Rich ornamentation blended on the walls and pillars and intricate carvings in the sculptures are veritable showcases of marvel in craftsmanship.
Innovation in designing and breathtaking ornamental carvings will put today’s architects to infamy

The  walls and pillars are engraved with aesthetic designs of leaves, floral patterns, rows of birds, fish, animals, motifs of mythological scenes  and even the natural elements like sky, clouds.

A closer look in to walls of the Octagonal pavilion

Craftly carved panels







Shrines with doors in each of the corners

Intricately carved pillars

Pillars enriched with engravings & carvings

A Balcony with exquisite carvings

A Motif with elephants, horses and soldiers


Though  it  was  difficult for me to keep away the photographic gears from rain drops,  I was lucky get some shots in the midst of  drizzles inside the Vav

Some where in the middle of the carvings on pillars and walls, mythological scenes and gods can be spotted.

View of the Stretch of the Vav Structure from top

Entry to the platform corridor in all stories & spiral steps in the east and  west are closed by ASI

It is believed that the architects who built this magnificent structure were sent to their graves by Mohammed Begda who did not want them to replicate this master piece anywhere else again

HOW TO REACH
The Architectural Adalaj step-well is just 18 km. north of Ahmedabad and can be driven within at the most half an hour from the  glitter and glamour of the malls and multiplexes of the city.


BEST TIME TO VISIT
The best time to visit is between the months of October and March as the weather in this season is quite pleasant in Ahmedabad.


TIMING
The step well is open on all the days and to relish the interiors of the step well, it is advisable to plan your visit when the sun is up you are at the bottom of the step well.

Today the step well is a heritage site maintained by Archeological Survey of India, inviting visitors from all over the globe for its gorgeous architecture and engineering excellence.
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